Tsarist officers in Kars, northeast Turkey, April 3, 1910. My grandfather is sitting at left, sword in hand. It seemed appropriate to post this picture as I am reading Orhan Pamuk's Snow, a novel about a poet who arrives in Kars after 12 years in Germany, to be confronted by the backwardness of the growing Islamist movement as well as the right wing secular nationalists. Kars was much more cosmopolitan in my grandfather's day, containing a rich mix of Russians, Greeks, Kurds, Armenians, Turks, Azerbaijanis, and Turkmens. (Photo: S. Grammatikopulo, Kars)
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